Hay Replacement Options for Horses: What To Feed When Hay Is Limited

By Dr Duncan Houston

Hay shortages are stressful because horses are built around forage. When good hay becomes scarce, expensive, dusty, mouldy, or impossible for a horse to chew, owners often scramble for substitutes.

The important thing is this: hay replacement is not just about filling the stomach. It is about replacing fibre, chewing time, gut function, calories, protein, minerals, and behavioural satisfaction as safely as possible.

Some horses can manage well on hay cubes, hay pellets, beet pulp, chopped forage, or a complete feed. Others still need at least some long-stem forage for gut health, mental wellbeing, and normal eating behaviour. The best choice depends on why hay is being replaced in the first place.

Quick Answer

Hay can be partly or fully replaced with appropriate forage substitutes such as hay cubes, hay pellets, chopped forage, beet pulp, or a true complete feed, but the ration must be balanced and introduced gradually. Horses generally need 1.5 to 2% of body weight per day in forage or forage substitute on a dry matter basis, and any major diet change should usually be made over 10 to 14 days to reduce digestive upset. Complete feeds are different from ordinary high-fibre feeds because they are designed to be fed without hay or additional grain, but they must be fed at the correct labelled rate and split into small meals. (Merck Veterinary Manual)

When Do Horses Need Hay Replacements?

Hay replacements are useful when normal hay is not available, not safe, or not suitable for the horse.

Common reasons include:

• Drought or hay shortage

• Hay is too expensive

• Hay is mouldy, dusty, stemmy, or poor quality

• The horse has dental disease and cannot chew long-stem hay

• The horse is quidding hay

• The horse has equine asthma or respiratory sensitivity

• The horse is travelling and hay storage is limited

• The horse needs a controlled low-sugar or low-starch ration

• The horse is a senior and losing weight

• Hay intake needs to be measured more precisely

• Hay waste is excessive

The first decision is not “which product is cheapest?” It is why are we replacing hay, and what does this specific horse need from the replacement?

A horse with no teeth needs a different plan from an overweight pony with laminitis risk. A horse with severe asthma needs a different plan from a healthy broodmare during a drought.

What Counts as a Hay Replacement?

A hay replacement is a feed that can replace some or all of the forage portion of the diet.

Common options include:

Option	Can It Replace Hay?	Best Use	Main Caution
Hay cubes	Partial or total replacement	Dental issues, hay shortage, measured feeding	Soak if choke risk or poor teeth
Hay pellets	Partial or total replacement	Seniors, respiratory horses, easy storage	Less chewing time, may be eaten quickly
Chopped forage	Partial or total replacement	Horses needing shorter fibre	Can spoil after opening
Beet pulp	Partial replacement	Fibre and calories, seniors, weight gain support	Not nutritionally complete by itself
Complete feed	Total replacement if labelled for it	No hay available, dental disease, asthma	Must be fed at correct rate in small meals
Haylage	Possible replacement	Some respiratory horses, where safely produced	Botulism and mould risk if poorly handled
Straw	Limited specialist use only	Weight control in selected cases	Poor nutrition, impaction risk, not a simple hay replacement

University of Minnesota lists hay cubes, alfalfa pellets, chopped alfalfa, beet pulp, complete feeds, and other fibre sources as possible alternative feedstuffs, but also recommends consulting a veterinarian or equine nutritionist before using alternatives to replace hay. (University of Minnesota Extension)

What Is a Complete Feed?

A complete feed is a commercial horse feed designed to replace the horse’s hay, grain, and vitamin-mineral supplement in one ration.

That does not mean every pelleted feed is a complete feed. It also does not mean every feed with a high fibre percentage can safely replace hay.

Rutgers describes complete concentrates as textured, pelleted, or extruded feeds made from ingredients such as grain, hay, beet pulp, vitamins, and minerals. These products are specifically designed to be fed without hay, grain, or other supplements while still meeting the horse’s basic needs. (NJ Agricultural Station)

A true complete feed should clearly state something like:

• Designed to be fed without forage

• Can be used as a complete ration

• Feeding directions provided with and without hay

• Daily feeding rate high enough to replace forage

If the bag only tells you to feed 1 to 3 kg per day, it is probably not replacing all the forage for an average horse. It may be a balancer, concentrate, senior feed, or high-fibre feed, but not necessarily a complete ration.

Why You Should Not Judge by Fibre Percentage Alone

This is a big trap.

A feed can be “high fibre” and still not be a complete hay replacement. Fibre percentage tells you part of the story, but it does not tell you whether the feed is designed to be fed in large enough quantities to replace hay safely.

The important questions are:

• Does the label say it can be fed without hay?

• What is the recommended daily feeding rate?

• Does it include vitamins and minerals at that feeding rate?

• Does it provide enough calories for this horse?

• Is the starch and sugar level appropriate?

• Can the horse safely eat the required volume?

• Can you split it into enough meals?

• Is the cost realistic at full feeding rate?

Rutgers notes that an average 1,000 lb horse may need about 15 lb of complete feed daily when hay is removed, and that this amount should be split into smaller meals of around 3 to 4 lb per feeding to avoid overwhelming digestive capacity. (NJ Agricultural Station)

That is the bit owners often miss. A complete feed is only complete if you feed enough of it.

How Much Hay Replacement Does a Horse Need?

A useful starting point is the horse’s body weight.

Merck Veterinary Manual recommends that horses receive 1.5 to 2% of body weight per day in forage on a dry matter basis. This forage can include hay, pasture, haylage, hay cubes, hay-based pellets, beet pulp, or other high-fibre sources. (Merck Veterinary Manual)

For a 500 kg horse, that is roughly:

Daily Intake Target	Approximate Dry Matter
1.5% body weight	7.5 kg per day
2% body weight	10 kg per day
2.5% body weight	12.5 kg per day, sometimes used for weight gain plans

For a 1,000 lb horse, that is roughly:

Daily Intake Target	Approximate Dry Matter
1.5% body weight	15 lb per day
2% body weight	20 lb per day
2.5% body weight	25 lb per day

This does not mean every horse should eat the same amount. Easy keepers, metabolic horses, seniors, broodmares, growing horses, performance horses, and underweight horses all need different plans.

But it does mean this: a handful of beet pulp or one scoop of pellets is not replacing a day’s hay.

Option 1: Hay Cubes

Hay cubes are chopped hay compressed into cubes. They may be made from alfalfa, grass hay, or a mix.

They can be very useful when hay is limited because their nutrient content is often similar to hay, they are easier to store, and they may create less waste and dust. University of Minnesota states that hay cubes may be used as a total replacement for hay and can be high in fibre and bulk, but horses may eat them faster than hay and may overeat if intake is not managed. (University of Minnesota Extension)

Hay cubes are useful for:

• Hay shortages

• Dental issues

• Senior horses

• Travel

• Reduced hay waste

• Respiratory-sensitive horses

• Measured forage intake

The biggest safety point is choking risk. Rutgers recommends soaking hay cubes before feeding to eliminate choking risk, especially in horses that cannot chew long-stem hay properly. (NJ Agricultural Station)

Practical Use

For many horses, hay cubes should be soaked until soft, especially if the horse is older, greedy, missing teeth, has a choke history, or eats quickly.

Use straight grass cubes or mixed grass-alfalfa cubes for many adult maintenance horses. Straight alfalfa cubes are higher in protein and calcium and may suit lactating mares, growing horses, or selected hard keepers, but they are not automatically ideal for every horse.

Option 2: Hay Pellets

Hay pellets are ground hay compressed into pellets. They are easy to store, easy to weigh, and useful for horses that cannot chew long-stem forage.

University of Minnesota notes that alfalfa pellets can be used as a total replacement, are high in fibre, and may produce less dust and waste than hay, but horses spend less time eating them and may overeat. (University of Minnesota Extension)

Hay pellets are useful for:

• Senior horses

• Dental disease

• Horses that quid hay

• Respiratory disease

• Horses needing soaked meals

• Precise ration control

• Easy storage during hay shortages

The downside is chewing time. A horse can eat pellets quickly, which can increase boredom, frustration, wood chewing, and long periods without forage behaviour.

Practical Use

Soak pellets for horses with poor teeth, choke history, fast eating, or low water intake. Soaked pellets can also help increase water intake in winter or in older horses.

Do not assume hay pellets are automatically balanced with minerals. Many are just forage in pellet form. They may still need a ration balancer, vitamin-mineral supplement, or complete feed depending on the rest of the diet.

Option 3: Beet Pulp

Beet pulp is a highly digestible fibre source made from sugar beet processing. It is not sugar beet itself, and when properly prepared, it is usually a useful horse feed.

University of Minnesota describes beet pulp as high in digestible energy, relatively high in calcium, high in fibre and bulk, and suitable as a partial hay replacement. It also notes that beet pulp may need phosphorus supplementation to balance its calcium content. (University of Minnesota Extension)

Beet pulp is useful for:

• Partial hay replacement

• Weight gain support

• Senior horses

• Horses needing soaked feeds

• Low-starch calorie support

• Some horses with loose manure or poor fibre tolerance

But beet pulp is not a complete diet.

It is low in some vitamins and has an unbalanced calcium-to-phosphorus ratio if fed in large amounts without correction. It should be part of a balanced ration, not the whole plan.

Practical Use

Feed beet pulp soaked if the horse bolts feed, has poor teeth, or has a choke history. Follow the manufacturer’s instructions because soaking time varies between shreds and pellets.

Be careful with molassed beet pulp in insulin-resistant or laminitis-prone horses. Choose plain, unmolassed beet pulp where appropriate.

Option 4: Chopped Forage

Chopped forage is hay or forage cut into shorter pieces and sold in bags. It may be plain grass, alfalfa, mixed forage, or include oil or molasses depending on the product.

It can be useful for:

• Horses that need shorter fibre

• Seniors with mild dental problems

• Horses that waste long hay

• Adding chewing time to a ration

• Mixing with feeds to slow intake

• Travel or stable feeding

University of Minnesota notes that vacuum-packed chopped alfalfa can have similar nutritional content to alfalfa and can be used as a total hay replacement, but it may mould after opening and should be used quickly once opened. (University of Minnesota Extension)

The big caution is freshness. Bagged chopped forage can spoil after opening, especially in humid weather.

Option 5: Complete Feed

Complete feed is often the best option when hay truly cannot be fed, especially for horses with severe dental disease or respiratory disease.

It is useful for:

• Toothless or near-toothless seniors

• Severe quidding

• Horses that cannot chew hay

• Hay shortage where no safe forage is available

• Severe equine asthma triggered by hay dust

• Horses needing a nutritionally balanced hay-free ration

But complete feed must be used correctly.

Rutgers states that complete feeds should be used instead of, not in addition to, the regular grain ration. Horses should also be switched slowly to complete feeds over about a week or more while hay is removed. (NJ Agricultural Station)

Practical Use

If a complete feed is replacing all hay:

• Feed the full labelled amount

• Split into at least 3 to 4 meals daily where possible

• Add water or soak if the horse eats quickly or has dental problems

• Do not add normal grain on top unless advised

• Monitor weight every 1 to 2 weeks during the transition

• Provide water and salt at all times

• Watch manure and appetite closely

The main mistake is underfeeding it because the bag looks expensive. A complete feed fed at half the required amount is not a complete ration. That horse may slowly lose weight, muscle, and nutrient reserves.

Option 6: Haylage

Haylage can be a useful forage alternative in some systems, especially where good hay is difficult to make or where lower dust is needed.

But haylage requires careful production, storage, and handling. Poorly made or damaged haylage can grow mould or create botulism risk.

University of Minnesota notes that haylage may be used in place of hay, but owners must be cautious because mould and botulism contamination can be harmful or deadly. (University of Minnesota Extension)

Haylage is not something to casually feed from a mystery bale. It needs to be appropriate for horses, stored correctly, and used quickly once opened.

Option 7: Straw

Straw is not a true hay replacement for most horses.

It is low in nutritional value and can increase impaction risk if used badly, especially in horses with poor teeth, low water intake, limited movement, or a history of colic. University of Minnesota lists straw and corn stalks as feeds that can be fed to horses but are not recommended because of low nutritional value and potential harm. (University of Minnesota Extension)

There are situations where clean straw is used carefully as part of a weight-control ration, particularly in some countries and specific laminitis plans. But it should not be treated as a simple hay replacement unless the diet has been properly balanced.

For most owners, straw is a tool for specialist ration design, not the first answer to a hay shortage.

Hay Replacement for Senior Horses and Dental Disease

Senior horses are one of the most common groups needing hay replacement.

Signs that a senior horse may not be handling hay include:

• Quidding, which means dropping partially chewed hay

• Slow eating

• Weight loss

• Long fibres in manure

• Feed packing in cheeks

• Bad breath

• Dropping hay from the mouth

• Choke episodes

• Poor topline despite eating

• Preference for soaked feeds

For these horses, soaked hay cubes, soaked hay pellets, beet pulp, chopped forage, or a complete senior feed may be safer than long-stem hay.

The practical decision point is simple: if the horse cannot chew hay properly, the hay is not feeding the horse, even if the horse stands there trying.

Do not wait until a senior horse is thin before changing the plan. Dental checks, weight monitoring, and gradual forage substitution should happen early.

Hay Replacement for Horses With Asthma or Respiratory Disease

For horses with equine asthma, dusty hay can be a major trigger.

Merck Veterinary Manual states that environmental management is the most important treatment for recurrent airway obstruction, with organic dusts in hay being common culprits. It also notes that complete commercial feeds can eliminate the need for roughage, while hay cubes and hay silage can be acceptable low-allergen roughage alternatives. (Merck Veterinary Manual)

AAEP guidance also highlights that hay cubes, pelleted diets, soaking, steaming, and haylage can reduce respirable particles, and that environmental management remains central to controlling equine asthma. (AAEP)

Useful options include:

• Soaked hay

• Steamed hay

• Hay cubes

• Hay pellets

• Complete feed

• Haylage from a safe source

• Low-dust chopped forage

The key is reducing the horse’s breathing-zone dust exposure. Feeding dry hay from a round bale with the horse’s nose buried in a dusty hole is one of the worst setups for respiratory horses.

Hay Replacement for Laminitis-Prone or Metabolic Horses

Laminitis-prone horses need special care.

The safest hay replacement is not always the highest-calorie or most palatable option. These horses may need controlled sugar and starch, tested forage, and careful calorie restriction without starvation.

Important considerations include:

• Choose low nonstructural carbohydrate feeds where needed

• Avoid molassed products unless specifically appropriate

• Use plain beet pulp rather than molassed beet pulp

• Be careful with alfalfa if the horse is an easy keeper

• Test hay or forage where possible

• Avoid sudden ration changes

• Do not underfeed fibre severely

• Keep the horse eating safely across the day

For metabolic horses, the goal is not just replacing hay. The goal is replacing hay without triggering weight gain, insulin spikes, laminitis risk, or long periods without fibre.

Severity and Risk Framework

Risk Level	What It Looks Like	What It Likely Means	What To Do
Low risk	Hay is limited but horse is healthy, chewing well, normal manure, stable weight	Planned substitution is reasonable	Use hay cubes, pellets, chopped forage, or complete feed gradually
Medium risk	Horse is wasting hay, mildly losing weight, has mild dental issues, or hay quality is poor	Diet needs adjustment soon	Arrange dental check, weigh feed, introduce forage substitutes
High risk	Senior horse is quidding, losing weight, coughing on hay, or cannot eat enough	Hay is no longer meeting needs	Veterinary and nutrition review needed
Critical	Choke, colic, laminitis signs, respiratory distress, rapid weight loss, no manure, or feed refusal	Possible emergency	Call your vet promptly

The key decision point: hay replacement is planned nutrition. Choke, colic, laminitis, or breathing difficulty is not a feeding experiment. It is veterinary territory.

What Else Can Cause Problems During Hay Replacement?

If a horse struggles after switching to hay alternatives, do not assume the product is the only issue.

Important rule-outs include:

Dental Disease

A horse that cannot chew hay may also struggle with dry cubes, pellets, or chopped forage. Soaking may help, but the mouth still needs to be checked.

Choke Risk

Fast eaters, seniors, horses with poor dentition, and horses with previous choke may need soaked feeds and slower meal presentation.

Gastric Ulcers

A horse moved from long-stem hay to fast-eaten meals may spend more hours without chewing. That can increase gastric discomfort in susceptible horses.

Hindgut Upset

Sudden changes in fibre type, starch, or meal size can disrupt hindgut microbes. Merck recommends making dietary changes slowly over about 10 to 14 days to reduce digestive disturbance. (Merck Veterinary Manual)

Poor Water Intake

Dry pellets, cubes, and beet pulp need adequate water intake. Soaking is often useful, especially in winter or senior horses.

Underfeeding

This is very common with complete feeds. Owners feed a scoop or two and assume it replaces hay. It usually does not.

Mineral Imbalance

Beet pulp, hay cubes, alfalfa products, and rice bran can change calcium, phosphorus, protein, and calorie balance. A ration balancer or mineral supplement may be needed.

Boredom and Behaviour

Hay replacement meals are often eaten much faster than long-stem hay. Horses may become frustrated, chew wood, paw, or develop stable vices if eating time is too short.

When Is This an Emergency?

Call your vet urgently if your horse has:

• Choke signs

• Feed or saliva coming from the nose

• Repeated coughing while eating

• Colic signs

• Pawing, rolling, sweating, or flank watching

• No manure or very reduced manure

• Severe diarrhoea

• Laminitis signs

• Rocked-back stance

• Strong digital pulses

• Sudden refusal to eat

• Rapid weight loss

• Respiratory distress

• Severe coughing or laboured breathing

• Depression or fever

• Suspected mouldy or spoiled feed intake

Also call your vet if a senior horse suddenly cannot chew, repeatedly chokes, or loses weight despite eating. That is not just old age. That is a horse failing to use the diet.

What Should You Do Next?

1. Work Out Why Hay Is Being Replaced

The reason determines the feed.

• Hay shortage: use cubes, pellets, chopped forage, or complete feed

• Dental disease: soaked cubes, soaked pellets, complete feed, senior mash

• Asthma: low-dust forage, soaked or steamed hay, cubes, pellets, complete feed

• Laminitis risk: low-NSC forage substitutes and tested feeds

• Weight gain: forage plus calorie-dense fibre and balanced nutrients

• Weight loss: lower-calorie fibre, slow feeding, tested forage

Do not use one generic hay replacement plan for every horse.

2. Weigh the Horse and the Feed

Do not feed by scoop.

Record:

• Horse body weight or weight tape estimate

• Body condition score

• Current hay intake

• Current concentrate intake

• Replacement feed weight

• Number of meals per day

• Water intake

• Manure quality

• Weight change

A scoop of beet pulp, pellets, and complete feed can all weigh very different amounts.

3. Read the Label Properly

Check whether the product is:

• A complete feed

• A forage pellet

• A hay cube

• A ration balancer

• A concentrate

• A senior feed

• A partial hay extender

Look for wording that says it can be fed without hay if you are replacing all forage.

4. Introduce Changes Gradually

Unless a vet tells you to stop a feed immediately for safety reasons, make changes over 10 to 14 days where possible. (Merck Veterinary Manual)

A simple transition:

• Days 1 to 3: replace a small portion of hay

• Days 4 to 7: increase replacement if manure stays normal

• Days 8 to 14: move toward the target ration

• After day 14: adjust based on weight, manure, appetite, and behaviour

5. Split Meals

If using a complete feed or large amount of hay replacement, split into several meals daily.

Rutgers recommends smaller complete-feed meals of around 3 to 4 lb per feeding for an average 1,000 lb horse when hay is removed. (NJ Agricultural Station)

For horses with ulcers, boredom, metabolic risk, or senior issues, more frequent smaller meals are usually better.

6. Soak When Needed

Soak cubes, pellets, or beet pulp for:

• Seniors

• Poor teeth

• Choke history

• Fast eaters

• Horses needing more water intake

• Horses with respiratory sensitivity

• Horses that cough on dry feed

Remove uneaten soaked feed before it spoils, especially in warm weather.

7. Keep Some Long-Stem Forage if Possible

If the horse can safely chew it, some long-stem forage may still be valuable for chewing time, behaviour, saliva production, and gut comfort.

If hay is limited, even a small amount of clean hay or safe long-stem forage can help reduce boredom and wood chewing.

8. Balance the Ration

Hay replacements are not automatically balanced.

You may need:

• Ration balancer

• Vitamin-mineral supplement

• Salt

• Additional protein

• Phosphorus correction

• Low-NSC formulation

• Extra calories

• Calorie restriction

This is where an equine nutritionist or vet can save money and prevent mistakes.

9. Monitor Closely

For the first month, monitor:

• Weight

• Body condition

• Manure

• Appetite

• Water intake

• Behaviour

• Chewing ability

• Coughing

• Choke signs

• Hoof comfort

• Energy level

Recheck the plan if the horse loses weight, gains too much, develops loose manure, coughs, or becomes frustrated.

10. Have a Backup Plan

During drought or hay shortages, do not wait until the last bale is gone.

A good backup plan includes:

• One or two trusted substitute products

• Feeding rates already calculated

• Storage space

• Transition schedule

• Vet or nutritionist contact

• Emergency plan for seniors and high-risk horses

Common Mistakes Owners Make

Thinking Any High-Fibre Feed Is a Complete Feed

It is only a complete feed if it is designed and labelled to replace forage and supply the full ration.

Underfeeding Complete Feed

If the label says the horse needs 15 lb daily and you feed 5 lb, the horse is not receiving a complete diet.

Removing Hay Too Quickly

Sudden forage changes can upset the hindgut and increase colic risk.

Feeding Too Few Meals

Large meals are not ideal for horses. If hay is removed, meal frequency matters even more.

Not Soaking Cubes or Pellets for At-Risk Horses

Dry cubes and pellets can be risky for seniors, fast eaters, and horses with previous choke.

Using Beet Pulp as the Whole Diet

Beet pulp is useful, but it is not nutritionally complete by itself.

Forgetting Mental Health

Long-stem forage keeps horses occupied. Hay replacements may be eaten quickly, leaving long empty periods.

Ignoring Dust and Mould

A hay replacement plan should not include dusty, mouldy, or spoiled feed. Respiratory horses need genuinely low-dust management.

Prevention: Building a Better Hay Shortage Plan

A strong hay shortage plan includes:

• Buying hay early where possible

• Testing hay quality

• Storing hay properly

• Knowing your horse’s body weight

• Knowing minimum daily forage needs

• Identifying safe hay replacement products before an emergency

• Keeping high-risk horses on a written feeding plan

• Having soaked-feed options for seniors

• Having low-dust options for asthma horses

• Having low-NSC options for laminitis-prone horses

• Introducing substitutes before hay runs out

• Monitoring weight and manure weekly

• Working with a vet or equine nutritionist for full replacement diets

The best time to plan a hay replacement diet is before the hay shed is empty and everyone is standing around looking at one sad bale like it owes them money.

FAQ

Can a horse live without hay?

Yes, some horses can live without traditional baled hay if they are fed a properly balanced complete feed or forage substitute ration. The diet must provide enough fibre, calories, protein, vitamins, minerals, water, and safe meal structure. (NJ Agricultural Station)

What is the best hay replacement for horses with bad teeth?

Soaked hay cubes, soaked hay pellets, beet pulp combined with a balanced ration, or a complete senior feed are common options. The right choice depends on how much chewing ability remains, body condition, metabolic status, and whether the horse has a choke history.

Is beet pulp a complete hay replacement?

No, beet pulp can partially replace hay, but it is not a complete diet by itself. It is high in digestible fibre and calcium, but may need phosphorus and other nutrients balanced. (University of Minnesota Extension)

Are hay pellets better than hay cubes?

Neither is always better. Hay pellets are easier to soak into a mash and may suit horses with poor teeth. Hay cubes provide larger fibre particles and may slow intake more, but they should often be soaked for horses at risk of choke.

What should I feed a horse with asthma if hay makes them cough?

Options include soaked hay, steamed hay, hay cubes, hay pellets, haylage from a safe source, or a complete feed. Environmental dust control is essential because medication alone will not solve equine asthma if the horse remains exposed to dusty hay or bedding. (Merck Veterinary Manual)

Final Thoughts

Hay replacement can be done safely, but it needs to be treated as a ration change, not a quick swap.

The safest approach is to work out why hay is being replaced, choose the right substitute, feed enough of it, split meals properly, soak when needed, and balance the missing nutrients. Hay cubes, hay pellets, chopped forage, beet pulp, and complete feeds can all be useful, but they are not interchangeable.

A complete feed can replace hay only when it is truly designed and fed that way. Beet pulp can help, but it is not a whole diet. Pellets and cubes can replace forage, but they may reduce chewing time and need soaking for some horses.

The horse does not just need something in the bucket. It needs a diet that keeps the gut moving, the weight stable, the lungs clear, the teeth respected, and the risk of colic, choke, laminitis, and weight loss under control.

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If your horse needs to come off hay because of drought, dental disease, asthma, weight loss, laminitis risk, or poor forage quality, ASK A VET™ can help you work through the safest replacement options and decide when veterinary or nutrition support is needed.