First, Second or Third Cutting Hay: Which Is Best for Rabbits and Guinea Pigs?

By Dr Duncan Houston

A bag labelled second cutting can sound like an upgrade. A coarse first cutting can look less appealing. But neither label tells you whether that hay will meet your rabbit's or guinea pig's needs.

The useful questions are whether the hay is clean, what plants it contains, and how much your animal actually eats. A change in chewing or appetite deserves more attention than a change in packaging.

Quick Answer

There is no universally best hay cutting for rabbits or guinea pigs: first, second and third describe the order of harvest, not a nutritional grade. Choose good-quality grass hay that your animal eats readily, with unlimited access, and judge each batch on its condition rather than its cutting number. If hay intake suddenly falls, especially with fewer droppings or signs of pain, contact a vet promptly instead of assuming your animal has become fussy.

What do first, second and third cutting mean?

First cutting is the first harvest from a hay crop that year. Second cutting comes from subsequent growth, and third cutting is another harvest if growing conditions allow. How many harvests are possible varies with the crop and climate.

Second cutting can be softer and greener than first cutting, but this is a tendency, not a guarantee. Individual animals also differ in their texture preferences, as explained in Oxbow's veterinary discussion of hay cuttings. A number on the bag cannot establish what your animal will enjoy.

Hay cutting myths and what they mean for your animal

Common claim	What to know	Practical decision
Second cutting is always more nutritious.	Nutrients vary with plant species, maturity and growing conditions.	Compare the actual hay, not just the harvest label.
First cutting is best for wearing down teeth.	A cutting number is not a validated dental prescription.	Encourage regular hay eating and investigate painful chewing.
Third cutting is the answer for an underweight animal.	Weight loss needs a cause and an individual feeding plan.	Arrange a veterinary assessment rather than selecting hay by number.
All hay from one cutting is identical.	Different fields and harvest conditions produce different batches.	Inspect every new bag or bale.

University of Minnesota Extension's forage guidance explains why maturity is more informative than cutting number. Its crop science is relevant to hay selection; its horse feeding quantities should not be applied to rabbits or guinea pigs.

What matters more than the cutting number?

As forage plants mature, they generally contain more fibre and less protein, and become less digestible. Leaves and stems also differ nutritionally. That does not make the leafiest or most nutrient-dense hay automatically the right choice for every animal.

Check the following before feeding:

Identity: know the hay type. Timothy and orchard grass are grasses; alfalfa, also called lucerne, is a legume with a different nutrient profile.
Condition: choose dry hay with a fresh, grassy smell. Reject mould, damp clumps, mustiness or contamination.
Usable material: look for recognisable strands and leaves, with little dust or powder.
Acceptance: watch your animal chew and swallow it. A full feeder does not prove adequate intake.

Colour alone cannot measure nutritional quality. Where a medical diet needs precise nutrient information, ask your vet whether the supplier's batch analysis would help.

Do rabbits and guinea pigs need the same hay?

Both need a diet based on suitable hay or grass to support digestion and their continuously growing teeth. However, their complete diets are not interchangeable.

For rabbits, keep suitable grass hay available and tailor the rest of the diet to age and health. Young, pregnant, nursing or unwell rabbits need individual advice. The RSPCA's rabbit feeding guidance also warns that refusing hay can reflect dental discomfort.

Guinea pigs require dietary vitamin C as well as abundant hay. A different hay cutting does not replace appropriate guinea pig food and vitamin C sources. See PDSA's guinea pig diet advice for this species-specific requirement.

Straw is not a substitute for feeding hay. Straw may be used as rabbit bedding, but a bedding choice does not replace the hay or grass required in the diet.

Is hay refusal a preference or a health problem?

An animal that rejects one batch but eats its familiar hay normally may dislike the new texture or smell. First check that the new hay is clean and accessible.

A sudden preference for soft foods, drooling, weight loss or difficulty chewing is different. Dental disease can affect the back teeth even when the visible front teeth look normal. Merck Veterinary Manual's guinea pig health guidance identifies these as reasons for prompt examination.

Other explanations include too much concentrated food displacing hay, pain, stress or illness affecting the gut. In rabbits, a vet may also need to rule out an intestinal obstruction. Changing the cutting cannot resolve these causes.

How quickly should you act?

What you notice	Concern level	What to do
Rejects a new hay but eats familiar hay normally; usual droppings and behaviour.	Lower concern	Keep familiar hay available and check the new batch.
Eating less overall, fewer or smaller droppings, drooling or weight loss.	Needs prompt assessment	Call your vet when you notice the change and arrange assessment.
Stops eating, has little or no stool, or appears bloated, weak or painful.	Urgent	Contact an emergency veterinary service now.

When is this an emergency?

A rabbit or guinea pig that stops eating needs urgent veterinary advice. Do not wait overnight to see whether a different hay helps. Marked abdominal swelling, collapse or breathing difficulty also requires immediate care.

Rabbits with reduced appetite and stool production can deteriorate within hours, as described in VCA's guidance on gastrointestinal stasis. The vet needs to assess the cause, hydration and possible blockage before choosing treatment. Ask for instructions before syringe feeding or giving medicines.

What should you do next?

Keep food available. Offer familiar, clean hay and fresh water. Never withhold food to force acceptance of a new cutting.
Change one thing at a time. Offer a small amount of new hay alongside the familiar hay, increasing it gradually if your animal eats normally.
Check the whole diet. Pellets and treats should not crowd out hay. Discuss adjustments with your vet if intake or weight is a concern.
Watch each animal. Observe eating and droppings morning and evening, and keep a regular weight record. In a shared enclosure, check that every animal can reach the hay.
Escalate changes promptly. Record when eating changed and take the hay label or a photo to the appointment.

The RSPCA's guinea pig feeding advice supports constant hay access and cautions against lawnmower clippings. Clippings are not a safe shortcut to making hay at home.

Common mistakes to avoid

Paying extra for a cutting number without inspecting the hay.
Assuming softer hay treats dental disease.
Using a third cutting as a weight-gain treatment without investigating weight loss.
Replacing rejected hay with extra treats or pellets.
Blaming abnormal droppings on a new cutting without checking appetite and behaviour.

How can you keep hay appealing?

Store hay somewhere dry and protected from damp and contamination. Remove soiled hay and replenish eating areas daily. Keep a small reserve of an accepted batch so that running out does not force an abrupt change.

Offer hay in several easy-to-reach places, with room for relaxed foraging. Safe opportunities to explore, daily exercise and a predictable routine support welfare. The RSPCA's rabbit housing guidance includes hay-based enrichment and daily exercise.

Frequently asked questions

Is second cutting Timothy hay better than first cutting?

Not automatically. It may have a texture your animal prefers, but the label alone does not establish nutrient content or quality.

Can rabbits and guinea pigs eat third cutting hay?

Third cutting is not inherently unsuitable. Judge the hay type, condition and individual diet rather than assuming a third harvest is either necessary or harmful.

Can I mix first and second cutting hay?

Yes, when both are clean, suitable hays. Introduce the new batch alongside a familiar one and monitor intake and droppings.

Should I buy softer hay for an older rabbit or guinea pig?

A softer texture may be preferred, but age alone does not select a cutting. New difficulty chewing or loss of weight needs a dental and general health assessment.

Choose hay your animal eats comfortably, check every batch, and use appetite, droppings and weight to judge how the diet is working. A harvest number can describe the crop; your animal's health determines the next step.

For further practical small-animal education, visit ASK A VET™. If eating or droppings have changed, contact your treating vet promptly for advice suited to your rabbit or guinea pig.