How to Teach Your Dog the Touch Cue: Hand Target Training

By Dr Duncan Houston

The touch cue looks almost too simple to be useful.

You hold out your hand, your dog taps it with their nose, and you reward them. Yet that small behaviour can help you position your dog without grabbing their collar, move them onto veterinary scales, redirect them during a walk, improve recall finishes and teach more advanced tricks.

The skill only remains useful when it is taught clearly. If you move your hand into the dog’s face, lure them with food, reward pawing and licking, or use the cue to pull them into frightening situations, “touch” quickly becomes confusing or unpleasant.

Quick Answer

The touch cue teaches your dog to place their nose gently against your hand or another target. Hold the target still a few centimetres from your dog’s nose, mark the exact moment of contact and immediately provide a reward.

Add the word “touch” only after your dog is reliably making contact when the target appears. Build distance, position, movement and distractions one at a time, and never use the cue to force a fearful or painful dog closer to something they are trying to avoid.

What Is Target Training?

Target training teaches an animal to place a particular body part against a defined object or location.

Examples include:

Nose to an open hand
Nose to a target stick
Nose to a sticky note
Paw onto a platform
Front feet on a mat
Shoulder or hip against a wall target
Chin resting on a towel
Nose placed inside a basket muzzle

The most common beginner version is a nose-to-hand target, usually called “touch”.

When you present your hand and say “touch”, the dog moves towards it and makes gentle contact with their nose. The touch should be deliberate enough that you can clearly identify it, but it does not need to involve pushing hard into your palm.

Positive reinforcement strengthens behaviour when a valued consequence reliably follows it. Timing and consistency matter, and the verbal or visual cue is normally added once the behaviour itself is becoming predictable. (Merck Veterinary Manual)

Target, Cue, Marker and Lure: What Is the Difference?

Term	What it does	Example
Target	The object or location the dog touches	Your open palm
Touch behaviour	The action performed by the dog	Nose contacts your palm
Cue	Tells the dog the behaviour is available	The word “touch” or presentation of your hand
Marker	Identifies the exact successful moment	“Yes” or a click
Reinforcer	Makes the behaviour more likely to happen again	Food, play or access to something valued
Lure	Guides the dog by following something desirable	Food held in front of the dog’s nose

A clean training sequence looks like this:

Cue → Nose touches target → Marker → Reinforcement

The target is not the marker. The marker is not the reward. The reward should also come from somewhere other than inside the target hand, otherwise the dog may learn to search your palm for food rather than deliberately touch it.

What Can You Use the Touch Cue For?

A reliable hand target can be used in several practical ways.

Moving Your Dog Without Grabbing Them

You can use touch to guide your dog:

Through a doorway
Around furniture
Onto a mat
Away from something unsafe
Into position beside you
Towards the entrance of a crate or vehicle
Onto veterinary scales
Around either side of your body

This can be more comfortable and predictable than pulling the lead, pushing the dog or repeatedly reaching for their collar.

Improving Recall

Touch can create a clear finishing position after your dog returns.

For example:

Call your dog.
Mark or praise the decision to return.
Present your target hand close to your body.
Reward the nose touch.

This encourages the dog to come all the way back rather than stopping several metres away.

Touch is not a replacement for a properly trained recall. It should not be relied on around roads, livestock, wildlife or other serious hazards unless the dog is already securely managed.

Loose-Leash Walking and Direction Changes

A hand target can help your dog:

Return to your side
Move around an obstacle
Complete a U-turn
Change sides
Reorient towards you
Move behind you when space is limited

The target should be used as a clear alternative behaviour, not presented repeatedly while dragging the dog through lead pressure.

Veterinary and Grooming Preparation

Targeting may help a dog:

Approach veterinary scales
Position their head for an external examination
Move onto a non-slip mat
Enter a basket muzzle voluntarily
Turn their body towards a handler
Approach grooming equipment
Move into a suitable treatment position

Reward-based training and cooperative handling can improve predictability and may reduce fear for some patients. However, veterinary research shows that training completed at home may not transfer reliably into a clinic without deliberate practice in new environments and with new handlers. (ResearchGate)

Tricks and Advanced Skills

Targeting can form the basis of:

Spins
Leg weaves
Moving around a cone
Closing a light cupboard door
Pressing a large button
Touching a marked location
Moving between platforms
Learning body-positioning exercises

Heavy doors, sharp objects and mechanisms that can trap a nose or paw should not be used.

Does Target Training Build Confidence?

It can help some dogs, but the wording needs to be accurate.

A familiar touch cue may give a mildly uncertain dog:

A predictable task
A successful behaviour they already understand
A way to move without being physically pulled
An opportunity to reconnect with the handler
A clear path away from a mild distraction

That may support confidence within a carefully controlled plan.

However, the cue does not directly treat fear, panic or aggression. A dog can touch your hand while remaining deeply uncomfortable. Some dogs will even follow food or a familiar cue closer to something they fear and then suddenly react once they realise how close they have become.

The correct approach is to keep the dog far enough from the trigger that they can move normally, process information and disengage. Intense exposure can cause sensitisation, in which the fear becomes stronger rather than fading. (Merck Veterinary Manual)

Do not use touch to lure a frightened dog towards:

A stranger
An unfamiliar dog
A child
A loud machine
A veterinary table
A painful procedure
A surface they fear
A person they have previously threatened or bitten

Use the target to help the dog move away, turn with you or regain orientation from a safe distance.

Is Target Training Scientifically Proven?

The learning principles behind target training are well established. Immediate, consistent reinforcement increases the likelihood of behaviour being repeated, and a cue can be added once the behaviour is being offered reliably. Target behaviours are also used as alternatives to unwanted responses within behaviour-modification plans. (Merck Veterinary Manual)

Reward-based methods are recommended by the American Veterinary Society of Animal Behavior for dog training and behaviour modification. Current AVSAB guidance advises against electronic collars, prong collars, choke chains, leash corrections and other physical or psychological punishment. (AVSAB)

Research comparing reward-based training with electronic-collar training has found reward-based training at least as effective and, in some tested measures, more effective. (PubMed Central (PMC))

However, direct clinical research testing the nose-to-hand target by itself is limited. Claims that the cue automatically treats reactivity, builds confidence or eliminates veterinary fear go beyond the available evidence.

The most defensible conclusion is:

Touch is a versatile reward-based skill that can support positioning, communication and behaviour plans. Its value depends on how it is taught and used.

What Do You Need?

You need:

Small rewards your dog genuinely values
A clear marker, such as “yes” or a clicker
A quiet training area
A non-slip surface
One empty target hand
A separate hand or pouch for the rewards

Food is usually easiest because it can be delivered quickly, but play or another valued activity may also reinforce the behaviour.

Keep rewards small. Training should not accidentally become lunch, dinner and a small mortgage payment in cheese.

How to Teach the Touch Cue Step by Step

Step 1: Choose the Target

For most dogs, begin with one open hand.

Hold your palm vertically or slightly angled, with your fingers pointing down or to the side. Avoid holding your palm flat above the dog’s head because this may resemble a “paw” or “high five” cue.

Some dogs are worried by open hands approaching their face. In that case, start with:

A closed fist
A small round target
A padded target stick
A sticky note attached to a stable surface

The target should be blunt, safe and large enough for the dog to touch easily.

Step 2: Keep the Reward Out of the Target Hand

Hold the food behind your back, in your other hand or in a treat pouch.

Do not hide food in your target palm.

Food in the target hand commonly teaches:

Licking
Nibbling
Sniffing for crumbs
Following the food rather than understanding the target
Pawing when the dog becomes frustrated

The target should be visually and functionally separate from the reward.

Step 3: Present the Target Close to the Nose

Hold the target approximately a few centimetres from the side of your dog’s nose.

Keep it still.

Most dogs will turn and investigate. The instant the nose makes contact:

Mark.
Remove the target hand.
Deliver the reward.

Do not push the hand into your dog’s nose. The dog should complete the final movement voluntarily.

Step 4: Mark the Behaviour You Actually Want

If your goal is a soft nose touch, mark the moment the nose contacts the target.

Do not repeatedly mark:

Pawing
Mouthing
Licking
Jumping
Merely staring at the hand
Touching with the shoulder

For a very hesitant dog, you may initially reinforce looking towards or leaning towards the target. Once the dog understands that approaching is safe, raise the criterion towards actual nose contact.

This process is called shaping, where progressively closer approximations are reinforced until the final behaviour develops. Clear timing and immediate reinforcement are central to this process. (Merck Veterinary Manual)

Step 5: Reset Between Repetitions

After rewarding, move the target hand behind your back or return it to a neutral position.

Then present it again.

This makes the appearance of the hand meaningful and gives the dog a clear new opportunity to respond.

If the hand remains permanently in front of the dog, the beginning and end of each repetition become difficult to identify.

Step 6: Complete Several Easy Repetitions

Repeat only while your dog remains interested and comfortable.

Early sessions may contain just a handful of touches. There is no scientifically established number of repetitions that every dog needs.

Stop when:

The touches remain clean
Your dog is still keen to participate
You have achieved the small goal for that session

You do not need to force one final repetition after your dog has disengaged merely to “end on success”. Ending before frustration develops is the real success.

Step 7: Add the Verbal Cue

Wait until your dog predictably touches the hand almost every time it appears.

Then:

Say “touch”.
Present your hand.
Mark the nose contact.
Reinforce.

Say the cue once.

Do not chant “touch, touch, touch” while moving the hand around the dog’s face. Repeating the cue teaches the dog that the first few repetitions are irrelevant.

The presented hand will already function as a strong visual cue. The verbal cue becomes useful when you want the dog to prepare before the target appears.

Step 8: Change Position Gradually

Once the dog understands the basic behaviour, present your hand:

Slightly to the left
Slightly to the right
A little higher
A little lower
Beside your leg
Near a mat
Using your other hand

Change one feature at a time.

Do not suddenly ask a dog who has only touched a hand in front of their nose to leap upwards, run across the room and perform the behaviour outdoors beside another dog.

Step 9: Build Distance

Begin with one small step.

Present your hand far enough away that your dog must move forward slightly to touch it. Gradually increase the distance as the response becomes reliable.

You can eventually practise:

One step away
Several steps away
From across a room
During slow movement
Around a simple obstacle

Initially, keep the target still while the dog approaches.

Moving it away from the dog can teach chasing and may create frustration. Once the dog fully understands the target, you can intentionally teach following a moving hand as a separate skill.

Step 10: Practise in New Environments

Dogs do not automatically generalise training.

A cue learned in the kitchen may appear completely new in:

The garden
A hallway
A veterinary clinic
A lift
A park
A friend’s home
A noisy street

Progress through environments gradually.

When moving somewhere new:

Reduce the distance
Use better rewards
Lower the number of repetitions
Remove other distractions
Return temporarily to an easier version

Poor generalisation was one of the limitations found in a controlled cooperative-care study, where trained skills did not consistently transfer to a veterinary examination performed by an unfamiliar team. (ResearchGate)

Should You Move the Target While the Dog Approaches?

Not when first teaching the behaviour.

A common mistake is to present the hand and then keep pulling it away as the dog tries to reach it. This changes the task from “touch this point” into “chase the moving hand”.

Instead:

Present the hand.
Hold it still.
Let the dog touch.
Mark and reward.
Move the hand before the next repetition.

Once the stationary target is reliable, you can introduce movement deliberately. Start with only a few centimetres of movement and reward the dog for following and touching.

How Can You Use Touch During a Walk?

To Reconnect

Present the target near your leg when your dog is already capable of responding.

Reward the touch and continue walking.

To Change Direction

Cue touch as you begin turning away from a mild distraction. The dog follows the target and moves with you.

Practise this in easy environments before relying on it around a difficult trigger.

To Move Around an Obstacle

Use your hand to guide the dog:

Around a bin
Past a narrow space
Behind you
Onto the safer side of the path

To Support Loose-Leash Walking

Reward a touch delivered beside your leg, then continue walking.

Do not hold the hand continuously in front of the dog’s nose. The dog should learn to move with you, not spend the whole walk attached to an imaginary hand magnet.

Can Touch Help a Reactive Dog?

It may be useful as one small part of the plan.

At a workable distance, you might:

Let the dog notice the trigger.
Mark calm observation or disengagement.
Present the target away from the trigger.
Reward the touch while moving farther away.

This can help the dog turn and move with you before a full reaction begins.

Do not wait until the dog is:

Lunging
Barking continuously
Freezing
Hard staring
Unable to turn away
Refusing normally valued food
Attempting to escape

At that point, increase distance rather than repeating the cue.

Reward-based training supports communication, but fear treatment also requires environmental management, gradual exposure and counterconditioning. Punishment or confrontation may increase arousal, fear and aggression. (Merck Veterinary Manual)

A dog with a bite history, severe reactivity or aggression should be assessed by a veterinarian and, where appropriate, a veterinary behaviorist. Trainers may support implementation, but moderate or severe aggression requires veterinary-led risk assessment. (AAHA)

Should Your Dog Touch a Stranger’s Hand?

Not automatically.

For a socially comfortable dog, a familiar person may eventually present a target after the behaviour has been trained carefully.

For a fearful, anxious or aggressive dog, asking them to touch a stranger’s hand can:

Create pressure to approach
Bring their face within biting distance
Remove their ability to observe from a safer distance
Cause a sudden retreat or defensive response
Encourage strangers to reach towards the dog

A safer polite-greeting exercise is often:

The dog remains beside the owner.
The owner presents their own target hand.
The dog touches it instead of jumping.
The visitor ignores the dog until the dog is genuinely comfortable.

A stranger should never place a hand directly in front of an unfamiliar dog’s face under the assumption that every dog wants to “sniff hello”.

Can Touch Be Used for Cooperative Veterinary Care?

Yes, but understand its limitations.

A brief hand target is useful for moving a dog into position. It is less useful as a sustained start signal because the behaviour ends almost immediately.

For a longer examination or procedure, consider teaching:

A sustained chin rest
Front paws on a mat
Standing on a platform
Lying on one side
Nose held against a stationary object
Voluntary entry into a basket muzzle

In cooperative care, the animal’s withdrawal should cause handling to pause whenever this is safe and medically possible. The dog is then allowed to re-engage.

Research into cooperative care remains limited and mixed, but it supports paying attention to the dog’s signals and deliberately practising skills across people, places and procedures. (ResearchGate)

Cooperative care does not replace:

Pain relief
Pre-visit medication
Local anaesthesia
Sedation
General anaesthesia
Necessary emergency treatment

AAHA recommends low-stress handling and appropriate anxiolytic medication when fear, anxiety or stress affects veterinary care. (AAHA)

Touch Versus a Chin Rest

Behaviour	Best use
Brief hand touch	Movement, orientation, recall finishes and quick positioning
Sustained nose target	Holding the head near a defined point for short procedures
Chin rest	Ear, eye, face, shoulder and external oral examinations
Mat station	General physical examination, injections and standing care
Paw target	Platform work, body awareness and selected husbandry exercises

A quick nose boop does not mean:

“You may now examine my ears for five minutes.”

Use the behaviour that matches the duration and type of care required.

How Do You Transfer Touch to an Object?

Once hand targeting is reliable:

Choose a safe, clearly visible object.
Hold it beside your target hand.
Ask for touch.
Mark when the nose contacts the object.
Gradually remove your hand from beside it.
Add a separate cue if you want the object target to have a different meaning.

Suitable objects include:

A padded target stick
A plastic lid
A large sticky note
A soft ball fixed to a safe handle
A clearly marked section of a platform

Avoid sharp pointers, small items that can be swallowed and surfaces contaminated by cleaning chemicals.

Troubleshooting Common Problems

My Dog Does Nothing

The target may be:

Too close
Too high
Looming directly over the face
Presented in a distracting environment
Similar to another cue
Frightening because of previous hand-related experiences

Try:

Turning your palm slightly sideways
Using a closed fist
Presenting it farther to one side
Moving to a quieter room
Using a separate object target
Reinforcing a look or small movement towards the target initially

Do not repeatedly push the hand towards the dog.

My Dog Licks My Hand

Keep food out of the target hand.

Mark only clean nose contact. Withdraw the hand calmly after licking and present it again.

A closed fist or object target may help make the behaviour clearer.

Do not smear food over the target if your goal is to reduce licking. That generally creates a very efficient hand-licking exercise.

My Dog Uses Their Paw

The open palm may resemble a shake or high-five cue.

Try:

A closed fist
Presenting the target farther to the side
Holding it slightly above nose level but not high enough to cause jumping
Using a target stick
Marking only nose contact

Do not punish pawing. Simply make the visual picture clearer.

My Dog Nibbles or Bites the Target

Stop presenting your bare hand when there is any risk of injury.

Use a larger object target and lower the dog’s arousal. Confirm that:

Food is not hidden in the target hand
The dog is not becoming frustrated
The target is not too close
Mouthing is not being marked accidentally
Children are not conducting the exercise

Repeated hard mouthing, growling or snapping warrants veterinary or qualified behavioural assessment.

My Dog Jumps at the Target

Present it lower.

Reward touches with all four paws on the floor.

Avoid elevated targets and repeated jumping in:

Young puppies
Senior dogs
Overweight dogs
Dogs with hip or elbow disease
Dogs with spinal pain
Dogs on slippery floors
Dogs recovering from surgery

My Dog Touches Once and Walks Away

That may be enough for the current session.

Possible reasons include:

The reward is not valuable
The dog is full
The environment is distracting
The session is too repetitive
The dog is tired
The dog does not understand the reset
The dog is becoming uncomfortable

Make the next session shorter and easier.

My Dog Only Does It When I Have Food

Keep the food concealed until after the marker.

Practise occasionally with rewards stored:

On a nearby shelf
In a pouch
In your opposite hand
In another room for an easy, established repetition

Do not stop reinforcing abruptly. Gradually vary the type and timing of reinforcement after the behaviour is reliable.

My Dog Knows It at Home but Not Outside

The outside environment is harder.

Return to:

A closer target
Fewer repetitions
Greater distance from distractions
Higher-value rewards
A quieter location

Train the behaviour again rather than assuming the dog is being stubborn.

My Dog Suddenly Refuses a Familiar Target

A sudden change deserves attention.

Possible medical causes include:

Neck or back pain
Dental or facial pain
Ear disease
Visual impairment
Neurological disease
Limb pain
Nausea
General illness

Pain is an important contributor to behaviour change, and painful dogs may become defensive when handled or when they anticipate movement that hurts. (Merck Veterinary Manual)

Arrange veterinary assessment when the reluctance is sudden, persists or occurs with:

Crying
Limping
Head tilt
Reduced appetite
Facial swelling
Poor coordination
Weakness
Unusual irritability
A change in awareness

How Comfortable Is Your Dog During Training?

Level	What it may look like	What to do
Comfortable	Loose body, normal movement, gentle touches and voluntary return	Continue with one small progression
Needs adjustment	Slower response, turning away, leaning back, lip licking or reduced interest	Pause and make the exercise easier
Stop the session	Freezing, trembling, repeated retreat, growling, snapping or inability to re-engage	End the session and reassess pain, fear and difficulty
Urgent safety concern	An attack, serious bite risk, frantic escape or self-injury	Use barriers and seek veterinary behavioural help
Medical emergency	Collapse, seizure, severe breathing difficulty, sudden paralysis or loss of consciousness	Attend an emergency veterinary hospital immediately

Taking food is useful information, but it does not prove comfort. Some dogs continue eating while tense, and others refuse food because they are full, nauseous or uninterested in that particular reward.

Look at the entire dog.

When Should You Seek Professional Help?

Start with your veterinarian when:

Behaviour changes suddenly
Pain may be present
The dog has become sensitive around the head, neck or limbs
Touch triggers growling or snapping
Mobility has changed
Vision or neurological function may be affected
Appetite, sleep or general behaviour has changed

Consult a qualified reward-based trainer for:

Basic target mechanics
Generalisation
Loose-leash applications
Recall finishes
Tricks
Ordinary unwanted jumping
Cooperative-care foundation skills

Veterinary behaviour referral is appropriate when there is:

A bite history
Significant aggression
Profound fear
Self-injury
Multiple behavioural concerns
Inability to receive necessary veterinary care
Failure to improve with an appropriate initial plan

AAHA notes that training is unregulated and recommends qualified professionals using positive methods. Aggression or a condition requiring a clinical diagnosis should not be referred to a trainer as the sole primary treatment provider. (AAHA)

What Should You Do Right Now?

Today

Choose one target hand.
Prepare several tiny rewards.
Present the empty hand close to your dog’s nose.
Hold it still.
Mark one gentle nose contact.
Reward from your other hand.
Complete only a few easy repetitions.

Over the Next Few Days

Practise:

Both hands
Slightly different positions
One small step towards the target
A separate room
The verbal cue before presenting your hand

Over the Next One to Two Weeks

Apply it to one practical skill:

Moving onto a mat
Finishing a recall
Completing a U-turn
Approaching veterinary scales
Positioning beside you
Beginning muzzle training

Progress depends on the dog. There is no need to rush through every stage in one weekend.

Common Target-Training Mistakes

Moving the Hand Into the Dog’s Face

The dog should complete the final approach. Poking the dog with the target defeats the purpose.

Hiding Food in the Target Hand

This teaches food searching, licking and nibbling rather than a clean target.

Adding “Touch” Too Early

Teach the behaviour first. Add the cue once the dog is already likely to perform it.

Marking the Wrong Behaviour

If you mark pawing, jumping or licking, those are the behaviours you are likely to strengthen.

Pulling the Target Away

Keep it stationary while teaching contact. Add controlled movement later.

Repeating the Cue

Say it once. Make the next repetition easier if the dog does not respond.

Using Touch to Force Approach

Do not lure a frightened dog closer to a stranger, dog or procedure.

Expecting Automatic Generalisation

Practise with different hands, places, surfaces and people in carefully graded steps.

Replacing Safety Equipment With Training

A touch cue does not replace a lead, secure fencing, barrier, harness or muzzle when risk is present.

How Do You Keep the Touch Cue Reliable?

Reinforce it generously while teaching.
Keep the marker accurate.
Avoid repeating the verbal cue.
Practise in easy environments as well as difficult ones.
Use both hands.
Keep some repetitions simple and fun.
Do not make every touch predict medication, nail clipping or another difficult procedure.
Maintain separate cues for different target behaviours when clarity matters.
Avoid using it merely as a noise to demand attention.
Stop when the dog becomes uncomfortable.
Investigate sudden deterioration rather than applying more pressure.

A cue can become unpleasant when it always predicts something the dog fears. Mix practical use with easy, rewarded repetitions that end immediately after the touch.

Can Target-Training Problems Be Prevented?

Good foundations reduce confusion.

Begin with:

A stationary target
A clear marker
An empty target hand
Immediate reinforcement
Short sessions
Non-slip flooring
Gradual changes
Reward-based methods
Careful observation of body language

Introduce targeting while the dog is comfortable rather than waiting until they are already frightened at the clinic or fighting every nail trim.

Cooperative-care skills are easier to maintain when they are practised before they become urgently necessary, although medication or sedation may still be the most humane option for painful or severely fearful patients. (AAHA)

Frequently Asked Questions

Can a Puppy Learn the Touch Cue?

Yes. Puppies can learn a simple hand target through brief reward-based sessions. Keep the target low, use non-slip flooring and avoid repeated jumping, sharp turns or long sessions.

Can Touch Replace a Recall?

No. It can create a useful finishing position after the dog returns, but it does not replace a properly trained recall or physical safety management.

Can Touch Help a Reactive Dog?

It may help the dog turn away, reconnect or move with the handler at a safe distance. It should not be used to lure the dog closer to the trigger or as the only treatment for reactivity.

Should My Dog Touch a Stranger’s Hand?

Not by default. For fearful or uncertain dogs, use your own hand target and let the dog maintain distance. Inviting close contact with a stranger can create unnecessary pressure and bite risk.

Can Touch Be Used at the Veterinary Clinic?

Yes. It can help with movement and positioning, but a sustained chin rest or mat station is often better for longer procedures. Pain relief, medication or sedation may still be needed.

What If My Dog Licks or Paws Instead?

Keep food out of the target hand, change the hand position or use a closed fist or object target. Mark only the gentle nose contact you want to reinforce.

The Most Important Takeaway

The touch cue is simple, but it should be taught with precision.

Present a stationary target, mark the exact nose contact and reinforce it. Add the verbal cue only after the behaviour is predictable, then increase distance, movement and distraction one small step at a time.

Used well, touch can help position your dog, support recall, improve movement on walks and form part of cooperative veterinary care. Used poorly, it becomes a lure, an attention noise or a way of drawing a frightened dog into situations they cannot tolerate.

The goal is not to make your dog chase your hand everywhere. It is to create a clear, voluntary behaviour that helps both of you communicate and move safely.

If your dog suddenly refuses familiar movements, becomes fearful of hands or reacts aggressively during training or handling, ASK A VET™ can help you organise the behaviour history and decide whether the next step is training support, pain assessment or veterinary behavioural care.

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About the author

Dr Duncan Houston

Veterinarian · Founder of ASK A VET

Every ASK A VET article is written and reviewed by qualified veterinarians.

About Dr. Duncan →drduncanthevet

How to Teach Your Dog the Touch Cue: Hand Target Training