Why Does My Cat Attack My Hands and Feet? How to Stop Play Aggression

By Dr Duncan Houston

A kitten hiding behind the sofa before launching at your ankles may look amusing at first. It becomes less funny when the kitten grows into a five-kilogram cat equipped with four sets of claws and the confidence of a small leopard.

Cats naturally stalk, chase, pounce, grab, bite and kick. The problem begins when these behaviours are repeatedly directed at hands, feet, clothing, children or another cat that does not want to participate.

Most play aggression improves significantly when owners stop using their bodies as toys, provide better predatory play and learn to intervene before the cat reaches full arousal. The important first step is confirming that the behaviour really is play.

Quick Answer

Cats attack hands and feet during play because movement triggers their natural hunting sequence. This is particularly common in kittens and young indoor cats with a strong play drive or insufficient appropriate outlets.

Stop all hand and foot play, provide at least two short interactive play sessions each day, use toys that keep claws away from skin and reward calm, appropriate play. Arrange a veterinary examination if the behaviour begins suddenly, is unpredictable, occurs during touching or is accompanied by pain, fear, hiding, appetite changes or reduced mobility.

Play Aggression at a Glance

Question	Practical answer
Is play aggression normal?	The underlying hunting behaviours are normal, but directing them forcefully at people or unwilling animals is unsafe
Which cats are most affected?	Kittens, adolescents and high-play-drive indoor cats
What does it look like?	Silent stalking, ankle ambushes, pouncing, grabbing, biting and hindleg kicking
Is it spite or dominance?	No. It is usually motivated by play, predatory behaviour, frustration or arousal
Should I punish the cat?	No. Punishment can increase fear and defensive or redirected aggression
What toys work best?	Wand toys, prey-style lures, kicker toys, balls, mice, tunnels and food puzzles
How often should I play?	Many high-drive cats benefit from at least two sessions daily, starting at five minutes or longer and adjusted to the individual
Should the cat catch the toy?	Yes. Allowing successful capture helps complete the predatory sequence
Do laser pointers help?	They can cause frustration if the cat never catches a physical target
When should I see a vet?	With sudden onset, escalation, pain, touch sensitivity, neurological signs, injuries or major behavioural change

Normal play varies between cats and life stages. Kittens commonly have a very strong play drive, while object play remains important in adult and senior cats even as social play between cats often decreases with maturity.

What Is Play Aggression?

Misdirected play, commonly called play aggression, occurs when normal hunting and play behaviours are directed towards a person, clothing or another animal with excessive force or poor inhibition.

A typical sequence may include:

1. Watching or locating the target

2. Crouching and stalking

3. Chasing

4. Pouncing

5. Grabbing with the front paws

6. Biting

7. Kicking with the hindlegs

These are not abnormal behaviours in themselves. Normal feline play deliberately mimics hunting, including chasing, pouncing, biting and clawing. The concern is the choice of target, intensity and potential for injury. (catvets.com)

A cat showing play aggression is usually not trying to dominate, punish or take revenge on anyone. The moving hand, ankle or trouser leg has simply become the most exciting prey item in the room.

Why Is It Called Aggression if the Cat Is Playing?

The word describes the physical outcome rather than necessarily describing an angry emotional state.

A playful cat can still cause real punctures and scratches. During overenthusiastic play, a cat may perform genuinely forceful movements without adequately inhibiting their bite or claws. Fear, frustration and defensive aggression can also develop if the cat is shouted at, struck or physically restrained during the interaction. (Sage Journals)

What Does Healthy Cat Play Look Like?

Healthy object play commonly includes:

• Alert interest in the toy

• Crouching, stalking and rear-end wiggling

• Short bursts of chasing

• Pouncing and grabbing

• Biting or kicking an appropriate toy

• Pauses between bouts

• Relaxed recovery afterwards

• Willingness to re-engage

• No prolonged hiding, growling or defensive posture

Large pupils and a flicking tail can occur during excitement and do not automatically mean the cat is angry. Body language must be interpreted as a complete pattern and within the immediate context.

Healthy Play Versus Fear or Aggression

More consistent with play	More concerning for fear, pain or aggression
Loose, athletic movements	Stiff, tense or crouched body
Ears neutral or facing forwards	Ears flattened or rotated sideways
Silent stalking and pouncing	Persistent growling, hissing or screaming
Brief bites followed by release	Sustained biting or repeated attacks
Frequent pauses	Fixed staring and inability to disengage
Cat returns willingly	Cat hides, avoids or remains hypervigilant
No injuries	Punctures, wounds or fur being pulled out
Predictable play context	Sudden attacks during touch or handling
Rapid return to normal	Prolonged arousal lasting hours

A hissing, growling or cowering cat is asking for distance. Do not continue the interaction or attempt to pick the cat up. (Sage Journals)

Are My Cats Playing or Fighting?

Chasing, wrestling and mouthing can occur during both social play and real conflict.

Cats are more likely to be playing when:

• Wrestling occurs without growling or screaming

• Roles reverse

• Both cats voluntarily re-engage

• Either cat can leave

• There are natural pauses

• Neither cat hides afterwards

• No one is injured

• The cats groom, rub against or sleep touching each other at other times

The interaction is less likely to be mutual play when:

• One cat always chases

• The other cat repeatedly attempts to escape

• Vocalisation is frequent

• One cat blocks doorways or resources

• The victim hides after interactions

• Food, litter or resting habits change

• Injuries occur

• The cats show no friendly behaviour at other times

Current feline guidelines note that silent wrestling is commonly playful, while one-sided chasing with vocalisation and repeated disengagement is more consistent with an unwanted interaction or one cat treating the other as a moving play object. (Sage Journals)

Why Does My Cat Attack My Hands or Feet?

Hands Were Taught To Be Toys

Many kittens are encouraged to grab fingers, wrestle hands or attack toes beneath a blanket. This rewards biting and scratching during the stage when the cat is learning which targets are appropriate.

The tiny kitten bite was the tutorial. The adult cat is merely completing the course.

Hands, feet and moving clothing should never be used as prey toys. Interactive toys allow the cat to perform the same behaviour while maintaining safe distance between claws and human skin.

The Cat Has a Strong Play Drive

Kittens and adolescents can have extraordinary amounts of playful energy. Social play between kittens peaks early, while predatory-style object play commonly continues throughout the first year and remains important across adult life.

A young cat living with a quiet older cat may repeatedly chase or pounce on the older cat because their activity needs do not match. The older cat did not apply for the role of full-time entertainment officer.

There Is Not Enough Interactive Play

Leaving toys on the floor is not the same as actively playing with the cat.

Motion creates prey value. A motionless mouse toy may become part of the furniture, while a wand toy disappearing behind a box becomes fascinating.

Research has found associations between greater play opportunities and higher reported feline quality of life and stronger cat-owner relationships. The study was observational and does not prove that play alone caused those outcomes, but it supports play as an important part of feline welfare. (PubMed Central (PMC))

The Timing of Play Is Wrong

Cats frequently become active around predictable times, such as:

• Early morning

• Evening

• Before meals

• When an owner returns home

• When people move through hallways

• When feet move beneath bedding

A cat that reliably attacks ankles at 9 pm does not necessarily need more toys at midday. The play opportunity needs to occur before the usual ambush period.

Movement Triggers the Hunting Sequence

Fast-moving fingers, bare ankles, swaying clothing and feet beneath blankets resemble prey.

Pulling a hand away rapidly after a cat pounces can make the target even more exciting. The response becomes self-reinforcing because every attack produces movement, sound or attention.

The Cat Did Not Learn Good Play Inhibition

Kittens learn aspects of social communication and play inhibition through interactions with their queen and littermates. A cat with limited early social experience may be less skilled at moderating biting and claw use, although development, genetics and later learning all influence the final behaviour. (catvets.com)

Boredom or Frustration Is Contributing

Cats retain the motivation to locate, stalk, chase and capture prey even when they receive enough food.

Failing to provide suitable outlets for these behaviours may contribute to boredom, frustration, reduced physical activity and misdirected aggressive behaviour. (Sage Journals)

Is It Really Play Aggression?

Not every biting cat is playing.

Petting-Induced Aggression

Some cats approach for contact but become uncomfortable after a short period of stroking.

Early warning signs may include:

• Tail twitching

• Skin rippling

• Ears rotating sideways

• Turning the head towards the hand

• Sudden tension

• Grabbing or biting after repeated strokes

These cats may enjoy attention but have a low tolerance for sustained petting. Keep contact short and stop before the first warning sign rather than testing how many strokes are available before the trapdoor opens. (catvets.com)

Fear-Related Aggression

A fearful cat may bite because they feel trapped or cannot escape.

Typical signs include:

• Crouching

• Flattened ears

• Tail held close to the body

• Piloerection

• Hissing or growling

• Attempting to retreat

• Defensive swatting

The treatment is not more vigorous play. The cat needs distance, choice, safe hiding options and gradual positive conditioning. (Today's Veterinary Practice)

Redirected Aggression

A cat may become highly aroused by an outdoor cat, unfamiliar animal, loud sound or other trigger they cannot reach. They may then attack the nearest person or household pet.

Redirected aggression may appear sudden and dramatically out of proportion to the immediate interaction. Affected cats can remain aroused for hours and should not be handled until fully calm. (catvets.com)

Pain-Related Aggression

Pain can substantially reduce a cat’s tolerance for handling.

Potential causes include:

• Dental disease

• Arthritis

• Back or neck pain

• Tail injury

• Ear disease

• Skin disease

• Abdominal pain

• Urinary disease

• Neurological disease

• Recent trauma

Sudden aggression in an adult or senior cat should be treated as a medical clue, especially when accompanied by reduced jumping, hiding, appetite change, altered grooming or sensitivity over a particular body area. (catvets.com)

Intercat Tension

One cat may repeatedly chase another without obvious fights. More subtle signs include:

• Prolonged staring

• Blocking hallways

• Guarding stairs

• Preventing access to food or litter

• One cat leaving the room when another enters

• Changes in sleeping location

• Hiding

• Overgrooming

• Urine marking or house soiling

These are not harmless play problems. They suggest the cats’ physical or social environment needs to be assessed. (Sage Journals)

Neurological or Compulsive Behaviour

Repeated attacks associated with altered awareness, unusual vocalisation, facial twitching, skin rippling, tail mutilation, disorientation or a stereotyped sequence may require investigation for focal seizures, feline hyperesthesia, neuropathic pain or compulsive behaviour.

How Worried Should You Be?

Low Risk

Your cat:

• Is a kitten or young cat

• Ambushes moving feet predictably

• Remains silent and playful

• Releases quickly

• Causes no injury

• Returns to normal immediately

What it likely means: Misdirected play is the most likely explanation.

What to do: Begin structured play immediately, stop all hand and foot games and reward appropriate toy play.

Moderate Concern

Your cat:

• Attacks people daily

• Regularly breaks skin

• Targets children or vulnerable adults

• Appears unable to stop once play begins

• Harasses another cat

• Is not improving after two to four weeks of consistent management

What it may mean: Established play aggression, frustration, poor inhibition or an incorrect diagnosis is possible.

What to do: Arrange a veterinary assessment and a structured behaviour plan. Bring videos and a trigger diary.

High Concern

Your cat:

• Developed aggression suddenly

• Is an adult or senior cat

• Attacks during touch or handling

• Growls, hisses or remains tense afterwards

• Shows reduced jumping or appetite

• Has neurological changes

• Causes deep wounds

• Has made another household cat hide or avoid resources

What it may mean: Pain, fear, redirected aggression, intercat tension or neurological disease may be involved.

What to do: Seek prompt veterinary assessment, generally within the same day or next available appointment depending on severity.

Critical Safety Risk

The situation involves:

• Severe facial or eye injury

• A deep bite over a hand or joint

• Uncontrolled bleeding

• An immunocompromised person

• A cat that cannot be handled or contained safely

• Collapse, seizures or altered awareness

• Severe pain or major trauma

• Rapidly spreading redness or swelling around a wound

What to do: Seek emergency medical or veterinary care as appropriate.

When Is This an Emergency?

Play aggression itself is rarely a veterinary emergency, but injuries and sudden medical changes can be.

Seek Urgent Veterinary Care if the Cat Has:

• A sudden major personality change

• Seizures

• Collapse

• Inability to walk normally

• Severe pain

• Major trauma

• An eye injury

• Persistent disorientation

• Open-mouth breathing

• A deep bite wound from another cat

• Aggression associated with inability to urinate, repeated vomiting or profound illness

Seek Medical Care After a Bite or Scratch if:

• The wound is deep or serious

• It involves the hand, face, eye, joint or tendon area

• Redness, pain, warmth, swelling or discharge develops

• The person has a weakened immune system

• The cat appears unwell

• Rabies vaccination status is uncertain

• Tetanus protection may be overdue

Wash every bite or scratch immediately with warm soap and running water. Cat bites and scratches can cause serious infections even when the wound initially appears small. (CDC)

What To Do During an Attack

1. Stop Moving

If the cat has targeted your hand or ankle, avoid frantic pulling, kicking or waving.

Freeze briefly, protect your face and disengage slowly when possible. Fast movement can continue the chase response.

2. Do Not Hit, Yell or Spray the Cat

Physical or verbal punishment can:

• Increase fear

• Trigger defensive aggression

• Intensify arousal

• Damage trust

• Make the cat avoid the person rather than learn an alternative behaviour

Reward-based training is safer and more effective for producing lasting behaviour change. (catvets.com)

3. Use a Barrier, Not Your Hands

If the cat remains aroused, place a cushion, large piece of cardboard or another solid object between you and the cat.

Do not pick up a growling or hissing cat. Move away and allow them to settle in a quiet space. (Sage Journals)

4. End the Interaction

When biting begins, play and social attention should stop calmly.

Do not immediately produce the world’s most exciting toy as a direct reward for biting. Wait until the cat is calm, then initiate an appropriate play session later or at the next scheduled time.

5. Clean Any Wound

Wash the area thoroughly and seek medical advice when indicated.

6. Record the Pattern

Once everyone is safe, document:

• Time

• Location

• Target

• Activity immediately before the attack

• Body language

• Duration

• Recovery time

• Whether food, outdoor cats or another pet were involved

Video is extremely useful, but never provoke an attack to obtain one.

How To Stop Play Aggression

1. Rule Out Medical Problems First

A young kitten with predictable ankle ambushes is very different from a 12-year-old cat that suddenly bites when their back is touched.

Arrange a veterinary examination when:

• The behaviour is new

• Intensity is increasing

• The cat is older

• One body area triggers attacks

• The cat has become less active

• Appetite or toileting has changed

• The cat appears confused or distressed

2. Stop Using Hands and Feet as Toys

Every household member must follow the same rule.

Do not:

• Wrestle with the cat using hands

• Wiggle fingers under blankets

• Encourage attacks on toes

• Allow children to chase the cat

• Tease the cat with clothing

• Push the cat away repeatedly as a game

Inconsistent rules make the behaviour harder to change.

3. Schedule Interactive Play

For cats with high play drives, current feline guidance recommends two or more caregiver-initiated sessions each day lasting at least five minutes, with the duration and number adjusted to the individual cat. Some kittens need several short sessions rather than one long marathon. (Sage Journals)

The best session ends while the cat is still engaged but before frustration, exhaustion or overarousal develops.

4. Recreate the Hunting Sequence

Move the toy like prey rather than waving it directly in the cat’s face.

Try:

• Slow movement behind furniture

• Brief pauses

• Sudden short sprints

• Disappearing behind a box

• Movement along the ground for mouse-like prey

• Brief airborne movement for insect or bird-like prey

Allow the cat to stalk, chase, pounce and catch the toy. Finish with a small treat or part of the cat’s normal meal when appropriate. This gives the interaction a natural endpoint. (Sage Journals)

5. Choose Toys That Protect Human Skin

Useful options include:

• Wand or fishing-pole toys

• Long prey lures

• Kicker toys for grabbing and hindleg kicking

• Lightweight balls

• Toy mice

• Crinkle toys

• Tunnels

• Cardboard boxes

• Puzzle toys

• Toys hidden for the cat to locate

Store string, feather and cord toys safely when unsupervised if they could be chewed or swallowed.

6. Let the Cat Win

A cat should catch the prey regularly.

Repeatedly preventing capture may increase frustration. This is particularly relevant to laser pointers, which provide the chase but no physical catch. If a laser is used, transition onto a catchable toy or food reward before ending. Frequent laser use has been associated with abnormal repetitive behaviours, although the observational evidence does not prove direct causation. (Sage Journals)

7. Anticipate Ambush Times

Begin play before the predictable attack.

Examples:

• Play before walking through the hallway where attacks occur

• Schedule evening play before the usual ankle ambush

• Offer a kicker toy before sitting at the computer

• Play before feeding

• Use a food puzzle when leaving the house

Preventing rehearsal is easier than trying to interrupt the cat after they are already attached to your socks like an enthusiastic little bear trap.

8. Reward Calm Alternative Behaviour

Reward the cat for:

• Sitting calmly near you

• Going to a mat

• Moving to a perch

• Following a target

• Approaching without biting

• Choosing a toy rather than a hand

Deliver the reward immediately so the cat can connect it with the desired behaviour. Rewards may include food, play, brushing or affection depending on the individual cat’s preference. (catvets.com)

9. Rotate Toys

Keep a selection available, but rotate some toys every few days so they regain novelty.

A cardboard box moved to another room can occasionally outperform an expensive electronic toy. Cats remain brutally honest product reviewers.

10. Use Food Enrichment

Food puzzles, treat balls and hidden food can turn part of the daily diet into searching, manipulating and foraging activity.

Start with an easy puzzle and gradually increase difficulty. Some cats prefer stationary puzzles, while others prefer objects they can push or roll. Count the food used towards the cat’s daily calorie allowance. (PubMed Central (PMC))

What Does a Good Daily Enrichment Plan Include?

A useful enrichment plan does more than purchase a basket of toys.

Predatory Play

Provide opportunities to:

• Search

• Stalk

• Chase

• Pounce

• Grab

• Bite

• Kick

• Capture

Vertical Space

Provide:

• Cat trees

• Shelves

• Window perches

• Stable furniture routes

• Elevated resting areas

Vertical options increase usable space and allow cats to observe or avoid activity below.

Hiding and Exploration

Use:

• Boxes

• Tunnels

• Paper bags with handles removed

• Covered beds

• Rotating room layouts

• Toys hidden in different locations

Scratching Opportunities

Offer several textures and orientations:

• Vertical posts

• Horizontal cardboard

• Angled scratchers

• Sisal, wood or carpet-type surfaces

Food-Based Enrichment

Use:

• Puzzle feeders

• Scatter feeding

• Hidden portions

• Timed feeders

• Small frequent meals

Safe Outdoor Enrichment

Some cats enjoy:

• Secure catios

• Enclosed gardens

• Harness walks after gradual positive training

• Supervised outdoor time

Controlled outdoor access can provide additional sensory and exploratory stimulation while reducing the risks associated with unrestricted roaming. It should be introduced according to the individual cat’s confidence. A stroller or backpack is not enriching if the cat spends the entire journey trying to become one with the floor. (PubMed Central (PMC))

How Should Play Be Managed in a Multi-Cat Home?

Play With Cats Individually

Cats do not necessarily enjoy the same toy, speed or style of play.

A confident cat may monopolise a group session while a timid cat watches from behind the sofa. Individual sessions ensure every cat has access.

Match the Activity to the Cat

A young cat may need energetic wand play. A senior cat with arthritis may prefer slow ground-level movement and shorter sessions.

Separate Key Resources

Provide multiple, visually separated:

• Feeding locations

• Water stations

• Resting areas

• Hiding places

• Litter trays

• Scratching surfaces

• Play areas

Placing every resource together in one “cat corner” creates competition rather than abundance. (Sage Journals)

Protect Older or Timid Cats

A high-drive young cat may repeatedly target an older cat that no longer wants social play. Increase individual object play for the younger cat and ensure the other cat has protected resting areas and escape routes.

Do Not Let Cats “Work It Out”

Frequent chasing, blocking, hissing or fighting should not be ignored.

Use a visual barrier to interrupt tension, separate the cats safely and seek behavioural guidance. Severe cases may require a structured reintroduction rather than immediate continued contact. (Sage Journals)

Use Catnip Carefully

Catnip relaxes some cats but increases arousal in others. Discontinue catnip toys if they contribute to chasing, guarding or conflict between cats. (Sage Journals)

Should You Get Another Cat as a Playmate?

Not automatically.

A second cat may provide social play when:

• Both cats are socially compatible

• Their ages and play drives are reasonably matched

• Introductions are gradual

• The home has sufficient space and resources

• Both cats choose to engage

A new cat can also introduce chronic tension, resource competition and fear. It should never be prescribed as a guaranteed cure for boredom or play aggression. (Sage Journals)

Do Pheromones Help?

Synthetic feline pheromones may be useful as an adjunct for some cats, especially when general stress or intercat tension is involved.

Their effects are often subtle and can be overwhelmed by ongoing pain, conflict, overcrowding or poor resource distribution. Pheromones should support an environmental and behavioural plan rather than replace one. (Sage Journals)

Are Behaviour Medications Needed?

Most play aggression does not require medication.

Medication may be considered when:

• Aggression is severe or dangerous

• A cat remains chronically hyperaroused

• Fear or anxiety is prominent

• Environmental and training changes have been implemented properly

• A veterinary behaviourist identifies an appropriate indication

Medication should not be used to sedate away normal feline play because the home does not provide appropriate outlets.

Common Play Aggression Mistakes

Letting the Kitten Wrestle Hands

The kitten learns that human skin is approved prey.

Waiting Until the Bite To Offer Play

Prevent the attack by scheduling play before the predictable trigger.

Punishing the Cat

Yelling, hitting and spraying increase fear without teaching the desired alternative.

Buying Toys but Never Animating Them

The owner creates the prey illusion. A pile of motionless toys does not reliably meet the same need.

Assuming Every Bite Is Playful

Pain, fear, petting intolerance and redirected aggression can look superficially similar.

Using a Laser Without a Catch

End with a physical toy or food reward.

Forcing Cats To Play Together

Social play must be mutual.

Ignoring Small Wounds

Cat bites and scratches can become infected and should be cleaned promptly.

Can Play Aggression Be Prevented?

Risk can be reduced by:

• Socialising kittens gently and positively

• Keeping kittens with their queen and littermates until an appropriate rehoming age

• Never using hands or feet as toys

• Introducing wand and kicker toys early

• Providing daily interactive play

• Giving each cat choice and control

• Creating hiding and climbing opportunities

• Rotating toys

• Using food puzzles

• Monitoring relationships between household cats

• Investigating sudden behavioural changes

• Supervising children during every cat interaction

Children should be taught to stop interacting when the cat walks away, flicks their tail, rotates their ears or becomes tense. Adult supervision protects both the child and the cat. (catvets.com)

Frequently Asked Questions

Will My Cat Grow Out of Play Aggression?

Play drive often decreases with maturity, but the learned habit of attacking hands or feet may persist. Do not rely on age alone. Begin structured play and consistent boundaries now.

Why Does My Cat Attack My Ankles at Night?

Evening activity, movement through predictable areas and accumulated playful energy can trigger ambush behaviour. Schedule an interactive play session before the usual attack time.

Should I Hiss at My Cat When They Bite?

No. Hissing, yelling or other aversive responses can increase fear and do not clearly teach the cat which behaviour is wanted. End the interaction and reward appropriate play later.

Are Laser Pointers Safe for Cats?

They can provide exercise, but some cats become frustrated because they cannot physically capture the target. Always finish with a catchable toy or food reward, and stop using the laser if it appears to trigger compulsive searching or agitation. (Sage Journals)

When Should Play Biting Be Assessed by a Vet?

Arrange an examination when the behaviour is sudden, escalating, painful, unpredictable, occurring during touch, developing in an older cat or accompanied by hiding, reduced mobility, appetite changes, neurological signs or altered toileting.

Final Thoughts

Play aggression is usually a normal feline hunting system aimed at the wrong target.

The most important points are:

1. Stalking, chasing, pouncing, grabbing and biting are normal feline behaviours.

2. Hands, feet and clothing should never become toys.

3. Kittens and young cats commonly need several short play opportunities each day.

4. Interactive play is more valuable than simply leaving toys on the floor.

5. The cat should be allowed to stalk, chase and capture the toy.

6. Punishment can increase fear and worsen aggression.

7. Not every bite is play aggression.

8. Sudden behavioural change requires a medical assessment.

9. Cat-to-cat play should be mutual and should not leave one cat hiding or injured.

10. Deep bites, infected wounds and severe behavioural changes require prompt professional care.

The mistake that causes the greatest trouble is trying to suppress the pouncing without giving the cat something appropriate to pounce on.

You do not need to remove the hunter from the cat. You need to move the hunt away from human skin.

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ASK A VET™ can help you organise videos, trigger patterns, play schedules and changes in your cat’s behaviour while you work directly with your veterinarian or veterinary behaviourist. A cat with sudden severe aggression, pain, neurological changes or major injury still requires prompt hands-on veterinary assessment.