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Destructive Chewing in Dogs: Protect Your Home and Teach Better Choices

Understand the pattern behind destructive chewing, organise a safer home and use reward-based alternatives while recognising when veterinary or behaviour support is needed.

Duncan Houston
Duncan Houston
Veterinarian · Founder of ASK A VET
10+ min read

By Dr Duncan Houston

A chewed door frame or ruined shoe can be frustrating, but punishment does not explain what your dog should do instead. Chewing is normal canine behaviour; the problem is the object, setting or level of distress surrounding it.

The first priorities are protecting your dog from unsuitable objects and understanding when the damage happens. Then you can teach an acceptable alternative rather than repeatedly reacting to the same situation.

Quick Answer

Reduce destructive chewing by preventing access to tempting items, providing suitable supervised alternatives and rewarding the choices you want. Look at the whole routine, including activity, rest and time alone, rather than assuming your dog is being spiteful. Contact your vet about swallowed non-food items, damaged teeth, distress or a concerning change in behaviour.

Start with safety, then work on training

If your dog has swallowed a non-food item or chewed something potentially harmful, contact your veterinary practice for advice. Training is not the first step in that situation. Tell the team what the item was, when it happened and what pieces you can account for.

Keep remaining objects out of reach without putting yourself at risk. If the dog guards an item, do not force their mouth open or confront them. Keep other people and animals away and ask for professional guidance.

What can be behind the chewing?

Exploration and normal chewing needs

Puppies explore with their mouths and may chew more while teething. Adult dogs can also enjoy chewing. Removing every outlet without providing an appropriate alternative leaves the underlying need unaddressed.

A routine that does not meet the dog's needs

A dog with little to do may find an activity in furniture or household objects. Appropriate exercise, sniffing opportunities, shared play and rest all deserve attention. More strenuous exercise is not automatically the answer.

A learned route to attention

If picking up a slipper reliably starts a chase, that interaction may become part of the appeal. Notice and reward appropriate chewing before the dog takes something you value.

Difficulty being left alone

Chewing during absences needs a closer look at how the dog copes when nobody is there. Damage alone does not establish one particular cause. A video and a factual account of the routine can help your vet or qualified behaviour professional understand the pattern.

Make a room-by-room prevention plan

Look at the home from the dog's level. Shoes, children's toys, remote controls, cables and rubbish may be easy to reach even when a room looks tidy to you.

  1. Move small, valuable and potentially dangerous objects into closed storage.
  2. Use suitable doors or barriers to prevent access to problem areas.
  3. Provide a comfortable resting place and fresh drinking water in the area the dog can use.
  4. Put appropriate activities where supervision is practical.
  5. Check the arrangement again when the dog's size, reach or habits change.

A barrier helps manage access; it does not automatically make the dog comfortable with separation or confinement. Introduce any resting area positively and check how the dog responds.

Choose the alternative carefully

Match a chew or toy to your dog's size and the way they use it. A dog who gently carries a toy has different needs from one who immediately tears it apart.

Inspect new items during supervised use and remove damaged pieces from play. Packaging terms such as “durable” are not a guarantee. Ask your vet about suitable options, particularly when your dog has damaged teeth, swallows pieces or needs an individual dietary plan.

Avoid hard bones, hooves and very hard objects that risk damaging teeth. Ordinary play toys should not be assumed suitable for prolonged hard chewing, and a toy is not a substitute for dental care.

Teach an exchange without a chase

Practise with a safe, low-value item before you need the skill in a difficult moment. Offer an appropriate reward, allow the dog to leave the item voluntarily and calmly retrieve it once they have moved away.

Follow with something suitable to do. Keep the exercise predictable and avoid repeatedly taking a valued possession just to test the dog.

If you routinely have to offer an exchange for the same stolen object, improve storage and supervision. The long-term goal is more practice choosing permitted items, not an endless cycle of stealing and trading.

What if the damage happens when you leave?

Record when you leave, how long the dog is alone and what you observe before and after. Where practical, video can reveal behaviour that is invisible when you are home.

Do not punish the dog on your return. They will not learn the intended lesson about an earlier episode, and your reaction can make returning home more worrying.

If the dog is distressed during absences, arrange suitable company where possible and seek individual help. Do not assume a crate, a new toy or a longer walk will resolve the problem on its own.

Review progress using the pattern, not just the damage

  • Routine management is helping: the dog chooses suitable items and settles comfortably. Keep the setup consistent and expand access gradually.
  • The plan needs adjusting: the same object or situation repeatedly triggers chewing. Improve access control and offer alternatives earlier.
  • Get support: damage worsens, the dog seems distressed, objects are swallowed or teeth are injured. Discuss the problem with your vet rather than escalating punishment.

Share notes about what was chewed, the setting and your response. A useful record distinguishes “chewed a cushion while alone” from “carried a shoe over while we watched television”. Those are different situations to investigate.

Common mistakes

  • Punishing the dog after discovering old damage
  • Using painful or frightening deterrents instead of safe access control
  • Assuming every chew product suits every dog
  • Forcing an item from a dog who guards it
  • Relying on toys while overlooking distress during absences

Frequently asked questions

Will my puppy grow out of chewing?

Chewing patterns can change with development, but dogs still need suitable outlets and guidance. Do not wait for age alone to protect the home or resolve distress.

Should I give my dog old shoes to chew?

Use clearly appropriate dog items instead. Keeping shoes out of reach gives the household a simpler and more consistent rule.

Is a crate the best solution?

Only if the dog is comfortable with it and the arrangement meets their needs. It is not a stand-alone solution for distress or destructive behaviour.

What if my dog growls when I approach a chew?

Do not confront them or take the item by force. Give space, keep others away and seek qualified support for a safe plan.

Prevent the next repetition

Choose one problem area today, remove access to the unsuitable item and provide an appropriate alternative you can supervise. Combine that practical change with a closer look at the dog's daily routine and any need for professional help.

Sources


ASK A VET™ supports practical, humane care. Your veterinary team is the right starting point when chewing involves injury, swallowing concerns or distress.

This article is general veterinary education and does not diagnose or treat an individual animal. Always confirm medication names, doses and interactions with the veterinarian who knows your pet.

If your animal is struggling to breathe, collapsed, bleeding heavily, seizing, or has eaten something toxic, contact your vet or the nearest emergency clinic now.

Animal Poisons Helpline (AU) 1300 869 738 · Animal Poisons Helpline (NZ) 0800 869 738 · ASPCA Animal Poison Control (US) (888) 426-4435

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Dr Duncan Houston
About the author
Dr Duncan Houston
Veterinarian · Founder of ASK A VET

Ask A Vet articles are written by Dr Duncan Houston BVSc, a practising veterinarian, unless another author is named in the byline.

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